Roads Across Odisha-4

Roads Across Odisha-4


Mangalajodi Bird Sanctuary

It was again an early morning start, and as always we had to be precise with our timings as it was also my last day at Odisha and I had to catch a train from a station nearby Chilka. We were scheduled to leave for Mangalajodi bird sanctuary situated in the Chilka waters. The Mangalajodi wetland (10 sq. km.) is a freshwater swamp to the northeast of Chilika Lake. Mangalajodi is home to over 3, 00,000 water birds of around 200 different species, both resident as well as migratory. Mangalajodi happens to be scheduled wetland of international importance under the Ramsar convention as well.

Pair of Bramhiny Shell Ducks

 Little Cormorant

It was time for us to face our first instance of uncertainty, in what I should call a meticulously planned journey. Our driver for the first two trips had committed to us to be in front of the hotel at 6 o clock, but didn’t turn up. Also efforts to reach out to him on his mobile were futile. Thanks to a courteous hotel staff, an alternative cab was arranged for within half an hour and I and Satya left for our destination.

We had absolute no information on how to explore the waters of Mangalajodi, the geography and species as both of us were weak at recognizing water birds. A hoopoe greeted us on the banks of the back waters along with wagtails. But still we had no idea how to venture in to sanctuary. Nearby the banks were 2 men working on their boats and Satya ventured ahead to ask them regarding way to exploring the sanctuary. The person informed him that we had to get the receipt of the payment at the welcome counter of Mangalajodi, we informed him that it was close. After a short deliberation the person in blue shirt nodded and said that you can pay the money later and he will take us around. We looked at each other, no one in the sight till farthest of the points and to trust on someone like that and to go with him in back waters was a great risk, but somehow our instincts came in and we decided to board their boat.

We were not expecting much out of this trip while boarding the boat, but as soon as the boat went off, the boat man pulled out the bible of ornithology in India “Birds of Indian Subcontinent”, by R Grimmett, C Inskipp we were just spell bound. A person who hardly looks like literate person is referring to a book on birds??  Meet Madhu Behra, the eco guide and a proud conservator and member of Wild Orrisa. Wild Orrisa is the behind the scene catalyst for converting a tribe of Bird poachers in to avid bird watchers and die hard conversationalist.

Living Legend- Madhu Behra

Madhu Behera is true representation of modern day Valmiki, from being a poacher himself till mid 90’s when there were even less than a few thousand birds remaining in Mangalajodi area to making it a tremendous success story to make the latest bird census above 3 Lacs. Madhu bhai has been instrumental in conserving the birds of Mangalajodi. His own income had dropped from around Rs. 2,000 a day to around Rs. 2,000 a month. His life had changed and today protecting the birds seemed to be all that mattered to him.

With very few tourists coming to Mangalajodi made us ask him a question that how long can he and his family sustain such low income levels, and with so low levels of income why would he not go back to hunting? Madhu bhai smiled for a while and said “Ab to bird watching ka hi nasha hai, ab job hi ho bird watching hi pasand hai” (Now I like bird watching and no matter what happens he will not go back to poaching , but will continue bird watching only). And as we were just about to get emotional with this statement byMadhu bhai, Madhu bhai with all his excitement said “Black winged Stilt”. From “black headed Munia” to “blue throat bee eaters”, the names were flowing so smoothly out of his mouth that we felt that we were in company of a biologist. He was aware of breeding habits, eating preferences, migratory path of the birds… every thing that one needs to know about birds and was not even a high school pass out. Even some of the so called “bird experts” will run for their money in front of Madhu bhai’s knowledge. With all the knowledge about birds, Madhu Bhai comes to you with humility and openness to share his knowledge. Madhu bhai is not only an example of a conservation success story but also signifies where our education system has failed so miserably? Yes I am referring to the application part of education.

Pair of Black Winged Stilt

A Bronzed Tailed Jacana

A Purple Moorhen

As our boat rowed along the swamps we came across pacific golden plover, herds of Bramhiny Shell ducks, Bronzed tailed jacana, Non-breeding Pheasant tail jacana, purple moorhen, Terns, Weaver birds, Painted storks, Eurasian spoon billed…It was like watching a wild life film on water birds. On every stroke of the rower something new was coming in front of us.

Whiskered Tern

A Streaked Weaver

Large Egret

Black Headed Munia

Pacific Golden Plover

While on the boat we had breakfast of sweet bread and Banana along with Madhu Bhai and his cousin who was rowing the boat.

Just the time we were having our bread, some noises started to come from the grass lands and herds of small birds started flocking in the air all of a sudden and Madhu bhai made us point above, it was a Shikara on hunt in the skies, and the birds were alerting each other from the predator.

 Eurasian Spoon Bill

A Grey lapwing

While being with Madhu Bhai, many questions started coming to my mind, why forest officials are getting paid if they cannot protect the resources for which they are getting paid? Why academic and other qualifications like proximity to bureaucrats are more required then the on field knowledge of wild life? Why our government does require NGOs to apply common sense and bring change in the society? The questions are enormous and I am quite sure that answers to these questions will snatch many IFS officers of their jobs and colonial bungalows where they stay with all the royal amenities.

Memoirs of Bhopal

Memoirs of Bhopal:

In the mid of September 1998, when I left my home and my city to pursue my engineering degree, I never ever thought that my close and continuous association with this lovely city is going to be interrupted. Since then I have always realized that whenever I use to go to Bhopal I use to spend time with my family, my friends but somewhere in between spending time with Bhopal was missing. Bhopal as city is so lively that its worth spending time with it. It’s a city which has imprinted its identity on me as a person.

Once I reached out to meet people from different Cities and they came to know that I belong to Bhopal, the first question or remark that I use to get was “Bhopal? Where gas tragedy took place?” As a Bhopali I have always been proud of this city. I want to bring forth other facets of Bhopal as well which are lying under the dark shadow of Bhopal gas tragedy.

The Spirit of Bhopal:

Bhopal has always been a city which has been closest to my heart. This is amongst a few cities which still have kept its Nawabi idiosyncrasies preserved and alive. Keeping the idiosyncrasies preserved is tough but keeping these idiosyncrasies alive is a different ball game. If you find excessive usage of abusive language between two gentlemen than be rest assured that they are two gregarious and close friends. My most loved aspect of Bhopal has been “Bhopali Batolebaji” at the tea and Pan shops of Bhopal. “Bhopalis” as a breed are omniscient. They have in-depth knowledge of each and topic and field (at least this is what they know to the best of their knowledge). People sitting at roadside tea stalls are an intellectually stimulating sight in Bhopal. But “Patia-bazi”, as the “Bhopalis” refer to the evening get-together, “Patia-bazi” is a euphemism given to a process of killing time in an ultra smooth manner. During the day, shopkeepers used the “Patia” to display products and seat customers; at night it served as a meeting place. These “Patias” were intellectual diet for Bhopal’s residents," says an old Bhopali. Discussions at “Patias” range from politics to movies to hockey to Sher-o-Shayaris to Kisse kahanis of the participants. The famous character of “ Surma Bhopali” played immaculately by legendary Jagdeep in movie “Sholay” is a typical “Patiya- Baaz” and “Batole-baaz” Bhopali Character.

A typical day in Bhopal starts with hot and light “Bhopali poha” garnished with coriander leaves and Sev coupled along with “Jalebis” served with hot piping. This is followed with a cup of authentic “Bhopali Sulemani chai”. The entire 3 course breakfast costs you in range of Rs 12.  

It is said that Bhopal is famous for its three jewels “Parda”(veil for women), “Zarda”(Dried pieces of tobacco leaves), “Namarda” (eunuch). Eunuchs form an integral part of Bhopali culture and any celebration without them is considered incomplete. These eunuchs have a tremendous market intelligence network. They are always aware of Birth of a baby and Marriage functions. They are the barters between the money and the blessings for a happy life. They have powers to convert materialistic power in to eternal happiness.

 

I made a point that during my travel to Bhopal I take along my younger brother as well, so as to make him come face to face with a Bhopal which till these trips has not at all existed in his memoirs. My brother knows all the joints of Pizzas, coffee shops and other cool hangout kind of places of Bhopal, but when I asked him where I can get a sumptuous Bhopali food he was unaware of.

Despite witnessing the post Babri Masjid demolition riots in Bhopal, I still have conviction in my heart that this is amongst the most secular and peace loving cities in India with a sizable amount of bipolar population.   

Another major aspect of Bhopal is the planning of the city. The city has been planned and then established. Bhopal has been a centre for studies, be it Islamic studies, art, Law, Forest Management, hotel management, Disaster Management, Engineering or Medical. From Sufism to Science, from Culinary to Disaster management the city can offer you best in the class education.

 

The Tajul Masajid:

The mosque boasts itself of being the largest mosque in Asia. By virtue of this the city boasts of hosting the Alami Tablighi Ijtima every year. It’s an annual 3 day convergence of all the preachers and followers of Islam. Apart from religious value Ijtima also held an important place in worldly pleasures. In the days of pre globalization the delegates from other countries use to bring apparels from their country to be sold in Bhopal. It was also said that the apparels sold in the Ijtima were used and worn. Because of this stigma associated with Ijtima many Bhopalis used to avoid buying anything new during these days, for the fear of being labeled as bought from Ijtima. The taunt went "Kyun Mamu Ijtima se liya"?

I wish to take a photograph of the Masjid courtyard when Namaz at the occasion of Id is offered. The grandiose gate of the mosque speaks volumes about the Mosque. Watching the reflections of the Mosque in the Motia Talab increases the love and Awe for this sacred place.

Masjid Dhai Seedhi:

This Mosque boasts itself as the first mosque of Bhopal and most probably the smallest Mosque in the world. It’s just a coincidence or a deliberate effort that the Tajul Masajid (Asia’s largest mosque) is just juxtaposed to the Masjid Dhai Seedhi. 

The Upper Lake:

Bhopal is also synonymous with City of Lakes. Amongst all the lakes this happens to be the largest lake. In Bhopal it is known as “Bada Talab”. There are various scenic points in and around the lake where one can spend hours doing nothing and yet not panicking after the shear waste of time done. 

Sunsets at the lake are a treat to watch. I personally like the views at the Karbala Ghat during the sunsets. 

A small island in the lake which has a Mazar on it is so very reminiscent of Bhopal in a way that whatever is happening around it, it continues to have its own identity. 

Moti Masjid:

Moti Masjid is again a mosque which has acted as a synagogue for Bhopal. The Masjid is in Ibrahimpura. Moti Masjid has witnessed innumerable number of Nikah ceremonies. Moti Masjid is an architectural splendour.

Sadar Manzil:

Look at the snap and than look at the initial few scenes of Sudhir Mishra’s “Hazaron Khwaishe Aisi”, can you see the gate through which Shiny Ahuja passes?

Sadar Manzil has been announcing itself for ages. It is now host to the municipal corporation office in Bhopal.   

Hammam:

Bhopal has a 300 year old Hammam (Now a days known as Steam Bath), The most intriguing and interesting aspect of this Hammam is the fact that although it is operated by Mulims, still the operating period of the Hammam is decided by two major Hindu festivals, namely Diwali (Marking the start) and Holi (Marking the end). The Hammam has two time slots during the day hours the entry is only allowed for females and it is during the evening hours the Males can secure an access. Kubra Bi- the owner of the Hammam made me look around the Hammam and also made me look at the place where the wood is made to burn. 

Curfew Wali Devi:

Please do not think for a moment that I have mis- spelled name of a goddess. This name has been given to this goddess because of the fact that during the pratishtha of idol of this devi communal riots broke out and curfew was imposed on the entire city. Till now the Believers call this divine deity as “Curfew Wali Devi”.

 

Bhopal to me is a stunning, attractive and laidback jewel in the heart of India. Bhopal is India's most livable city, not withstanding the still festering injustices of the Union Carbide tragedy.

The Bhudargad Fort

Location Guide:

60 Kms from Kolhapur. Kolhapur to Gargoti, from Gargoti take the Gadhinglaj road and take a right turn as soon as the ghat finishes. 

On the way to Bhudargad fort there comes two small Hamlets and viewing landscapes of these hamlets from the top of the hill is a spell binding experience.

 

 

The History:

In 12th century King Bhoj built this fort. The most distinct  feature of this fort is the vision range in all the four direction.

In 1667 the fort was repaired and put in excellent order by Shivaji. Shortly after, it was captured by the Moghals. About five years later the fort was retaken, and the standard colours of the Moghal general who was killed in the conflict were presented to the temple of Bhairav where they are still kept. About the close of the eighteenth century Parsuram Bhau Patvardhan took the fort by bribing the garrison and held it for about ten years when it was retaken by the Kolhapur State.

 

 

 

In 1844, were dismantled under the advice of the Bombay Government, stands on a bluff rock thirty-six miles,south of Kolhapur. It is 2,600 feet from north to south and 2,100 feet from east to west, and is enclosed by a broken stone and mortar wall with two gateways.

In 1844 the garrisons of Bhudargad and Samangad revolted and closed their gates. On the 13th of October, 1844, Bhudargad was taken by British forces and dismantled.

The chief object of interest is the temple of Bhairav which is about 3,000 feet square and consists of a stone and cement shrine, a hall, and a northern verandah.This temple remains cool in all the seasons.

 

 

Dudhi Lake is a place to spend at least an hour.  We just sat there water touching our feet and along with it bringing calmness and peace to the mind.

Sight of Lake at Chikotra dam from the fort is a distinct view and even in haze the lake view strikes through.

This "Lemon Pancy " butterfly was a in full mood to cooperate for shooting.